Finally! I’ve been dreaming of this project for quite sometime now. Since I’ve started blogging my projects, I’ve been motivated to start bigger and bolder projects, and finish them! I am very excited about my finished blinds, and can’t wait to share my experience / tutorial with you!
YOU WILL NEED:
- Measuring tape
- Lining (black-out material if you want)
- Eye screws
- Angle brackets
- Nylon string
- Roller blind tape
- Wooden planks
- Staple gun
- Glue gun (optional)
Step 1: Determine how much fabric you will need. Measure the window size and make allowances for the hems. I’ve added about 4cm each side (fabric width = window width + 4cm + 4cm). At the top, the blind is attached over the headboard, so you will need 4cm for the hem plus additional 3cm to go over the header board. Additionally, the blind’s weight (flat piece that goes at the bottom of the blind to keep it down) needs to be accounted for, so 4cm for the hem plus the width of the weight (fabric height = window height + 4cm top hem + 3cm over the header board allowance + approx. 7cm bottom hem). If you want to blind to hang below the frame, you need to consider that, too.
Note: I bought fabric that was quite expensive, and the total height of the fabric was 260cm. As its pattern had to be upright, my only option was to cut in halfway, and make the blinds with height 130cm, which was a little too short. I made compromises and did not leave the header board allowance. This means upclose you can see the staples, but it’s a small price to pay. I used half the fabric instead of buying additional fabric. Ch-aching!
Step 2: Determine how much lining you will need. I cut the lining the same size, but hemmed it in 1cm extra.
Step 3: Iron the hems. To make mitered corners, see pictures below. This is also excellent for slipping in weights into the bottom of the blinds.
Step 4: Once the hems are ironed, pin the fabric and the lining wrong sides facing each other.
The lining should be hemmed 1cm shorter on the top, right and left sides.
The bottom hem of the lining needs to be shorter, to allow for the blind’s weight to be inserted.
That’s the easy part done.
Step 5: Now you need to calculate where to sew the blinds’ tape. This worked for me: 1st strip 15cm (half the full distance between the folds) from the bottom, 2nd strip – 30cm from the 1st strip, and each consequtive one 30cm apart. Pin the strips.
Step 6: When it came to sewing, it helped to do it in the following order.
- Sew the bottom hem.
- Sew one of the side hems, remembering to tuck the edge of the tape in.
- Sew the tape on both sides.
- Insert the dowels. These should be about 3cm shorter than the finished width of the blind.
- Sew the other vertical side. (Note: I didn’t sew the other end of the tape, instead I tucked it in and used glue gun to seal it. I felt it was less permanent this way, and in case I wanted to give the blinds a wash, I could unseal it and take the dowels out.)
- Sew the top. Even though I didn’t do this because my material was just enough, I would recommend to do this end last as you could regulate the blinds’ length here – make them a little longer or shorter.
Step 7: Now the blinds are ready, you can work on the header board. The header board should be also about 3cm shorter than the width of the blinds. Attach three eye screws to the header board. One in the centre, and two on each side, about 6cm from the edge. I attched one extra one closer to the edge where all three strings would gather and extend down.
Step 8: Attach wall brakets to the header board.
Step 9: Attach the header board to the wall. You need power tools here.
Step 10. Using staple gun, attach the blinds to the header board. If you allowed for more fabric to go round the top, great. I didn’t have enough fabric to go round the header board, you can see where I stapled the blinds, but since the pattern is quite busy, the staples are not noticeable.
Step 11: String through the nylon cords, tying one end to the lowest tape going through the loops in all the other tapes, through the eye screw, towards the side eye screw and hang down.
Step 12: You could attache an elephant hook to the wall and use that to keep the blinds up. As I try to minimize the amount of holes we drill in the rented accommodation, I opted for a special knot. 🙂
This is my finished DIY Roman blind!